There are three main types of cultured saltwater pearls: akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea. Pearls can be cultured in fresh water as well. Each type has distinct characteristics, and each is very beautiful in its own way. Like with most things, individual tastes determine pearl preferences. Or you may have a taste for every pearl variety! The following is a look at the main types of cultured pearls.
Akoya Cultured Pearls
Timeless and popular, the akoya cultured pearl probably comes to mind when you think of pearls. (Because akoyas are easier to match than other pearls, they are a popular choice for bracelets and necklaces.) These saltwater beauties are typically small (they range between 2mm and 11mm; average is 6mm-7mm), and are most commonly white or cream-colored.
Akoyas are produced in the akoya oyster, or P. fucata, the smallest of the saltwater pearl oysters. The main animals used for saltwater pearl culturing in Japan, these small oysters typically reach only 8cm to 13cm in diameter, but they can accept multiple nucleations—up to five at a time. (If a larger pearl is desired, however, only one bead is inserted.)
Akoya pearls were the first round cultured pearls—called “spherical” in the jewelry trade—that were produced. Approximately 70%-80% of a given akoya crop is spherical. Typically white or cream with rosé or green overtones, akoyas typically grow from eight months to two years before they’re harvested. A jewelry staple, the simple and classic white akoya strand is a popular choice for brides.
Tahitian Cultured Pearls
If you think of black pearls, you probably picture a peacock-blue-sheened Tahitian. This is a desirable hue for a Tahitian cultured pearl, but they can also be black, gray or brown with hues of blue, green, and purple and overtones of rosé, green or blue. Marketed just since the 1970s, Tahitians are revered for their exotic colors and large sizes, and, as you may have noticed, their large price tag reflects their relative rarity.
Tahitian pearls are produced mainly in French Polynesia in the so-called “black-lipped” oyster, P. margaritifera, a large saltwater mollusk that can grow up to 12 inches in diameter, weigh up to 11 lbs. and live up to 30 years. These oysters produce pearls that reach 8mm-14mm in size in a growth period that takes about two years.
Tahitian cultured pearls typically show fair to excellent luster, and achieve this by natural means, unlike akoyas and freshwater cultured pearls, which require treatment—usually bleaching—to bring out their sheen. When Tahitians are harvested, farmers wash them in fresh water, dry them and lightly buff them, usually by tumbling the gems with ground salt and bamboo chips.
P margaritifera can be nucleated, or implanted, several times over its lifetime, but in general, the first harvest produces the finest quality pearl. Unlike its smaller cousin, the akoya, Tahitian cultured pearls are spherical less than half the time. For this reason, it may take years to find just the right pearls to match for a necklace. This is one of the reasons why a matched strand of Tahitian cultured pearls is so costly. Because they can often come in unique shapes, however, Tahitians are used by many jewelry designers in pieces that feature a single pearl. These pieces are uniquely beautiful and can be as breathtaking as a costly Tahitian strand.
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